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Rockers and Floors |
DISCLAIMER: The procedures found in this section (bracing) were developed as I went along. I am not a certified welder (heck I can barely turn the bloody thing on ;-) ) and most of this work is being done by the seat of my pants. Use this information at your own risk (now onto the fun part) |
Step 1: MEASURE, MEASURE, MEASURE!!! This picture is a reference for the rear seat holddown clip. Its measured from the flange of the "B" pillar brace. |
Step 2: The first incision. There is no turning back now. Removing these braces required a dremel tool (to get in the tight spots) a 3" cut-off wheel in a die grinder and a lot of patience.The part that has been removed attaches to the braces shown in the picuture and attach down at the floors. The first pic is the passenger side, repeat for the drivers side |
Step 3 (OPTIONAL): Finish removing the "B" pillar brace. I debated long and hard about removing this piece. I've seen people who have replaced the floors leaving the upper half of the "B" pillar brace alone. However, they didn't have to replace the inner rockers either. So, in the end, I've opted to remove it so I have easier access to the rockers. There are lots of spots and lots of patience required. The first pic are the spot removed from the "B" pillar. Second pic is with the brace removed. Repeat for drivers side |
Step 4: As I've mentioned before, I'm flying by the seat of my pants here. After looking at how the floor pans attach to the rest of the shell, I originally did not want to mess with the pinch weld betweent the floors and the toe boards. This steel was in good (salvagable) shape with the exeption of the very corners by the rockers. So, I've measured down 3" from the pinch weld seam and am now ready to cut <shudders> |
Step 5: I originally wanted to removed the floor pan as one piece. This quickly fell to the wayside when I was unable to get all the spot welds to break on the bracing. That right now is my biggest problem, finding the center of the spot so they drill out cleanly. WHAT A PAIN!! So, I cut along my tape line and along the front brace and pulled the first section of the floor out |
Step 6: More of the same as step 5. I drilled out the spots where the floor pan was welded to the rear seat pan, cut along the front seat rear brace and pulled out the section |
Step 7: As mentioned in step 4, I didn't want to mess around with the pinch seam between the toe boards and the floor pan. Well, after a discussion with the more than knowledgable folks on Chevytalk.com, I was convinced that the correct way was to remove the 3" of floor that I didn't cut out. This is the view from the firewall looking towards the pinch weld. I found it was easiest to use a 1/4" drill bit to punch thru the pinch weld, then finish up the spot using a step drill bit. The step bit increased diameters at 1/32" increments so I could control exactly how much material was removed. Once all the spots were out, I went from the inside of the shell, and used an air chisel (my new best friend) to finish breaking up the seam. This 3" strip came out cleanly with no damage to the toe board. |
Step 7: Somewhere I also removed the rear seat pan, but appearently didnt' take any picutures. Removing this pieces was a major pain in the butt. There are a series of spots on a pinch weld inside the wheel house which are difficult to get to. Again, I ended up cutting this piece out in sections |
Step 8: With the floor pans and the rear seat pans removed, the floor braces can come out. I took several measurements as to their placement on the inner rocker. Again, the air chisel is my best friend. I only removed the front brace and the two intermediate braces in this step. Currently the rear tires are off the car and jack stands under the rear axel. This is so I can get at all the spots inside the wheel house. I want to get the car back on its tires before removing any more structural components. |
Step 9: Removing the splash cover (don't know if that is the correct name) from the rear area of the inner/outer rocker. It is pretty straight forward, drill/grind out some spot welds and out it comes. I need to repeat this for the drivers side. Once that piece is out, I can put the car back on the tires and finish removing the rear seat brace. In hind site (always 20/20) I probably should have pulled these pieces out first and put the car back on its tires before removing the front floor brace. Hopefully nothing has twisted <crosses fingers> |
REFERENCE PIC: I have seen a lot of discussions revolving around the "mystery piece" of sheet metal that resides between the inner and out rockers. Many times, this piece is so rusted, there isn't enough of it left to use as a template to fabricate a new one. Well boys and girls, the mystery is about to be revealed!! :-) It appears that with all the rust on my car, the one piece that is still solid (go figure) is this inner piece. I'll post picutures of the complete piece once I get it out. If I'm really ambitious I'll do a 3d CAD drawing with dimensions. |
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